Last week we took a 4-day/3-night road trip to Prince Albert.  Normally we just zip over for the day and back in the late afternoon (see this earlier postfrom 2014), but this time we decided to stick around awhile...

So, all checked in and bags unpacked, it was time for a wander up and down the main drag, ducking in and out of the various little shops and galleries.  For dinner, went to the Gallery Cafe (we went there 2 out of 3 nights).  Besides the art gallery, they've got a restaurant with outdoor seating on the upper veranda - white table cloths, little hurricane lights and wine glasses and a spectacular view of the Klein Karoo and Swartberg Mountains makes for a wonderful ambiance, topped off by good food and a convivial host.

It was a birthday celebration (not mine), and we had a full-day cooking lesson booked at African Relish- the theme: vegetarian.  hmm, and here I thought the only vegetable on a South African braai was the chicken - apparently not!  Incidentally, if this piques your interest, you might find a full day pretty long (we did). Especially in the heat (the mercury hit 49 degrees).  Instead, I'd recommend their half-day option.

We were welcomed by African Relish's new chef, Jaco Fourie.  Having just started on December 1st, he must have been run off his feet with the holiday season, and here he was running a class - no rest for a chef it seems!  The kitchen is quite spectacular - check out the slideshow on the right.

I think our favourite part of the class were the outings, which I think was a really inspired start - first we went out to O is for Olive for a quick olive oil and olive tasting (including tapenades and relishes).

Then it was out to see Basil and pick some tomatoes from a local farmer's garden (no, I'm not being funny, that's his name).  The heat made for some pretty scrawny looking plants, but there was no shortage of tomatoes to be picked.  We even picked up a pomegranate or two, straight off the tree.

From there it was out to see the doctor.  What?  Yup, you heard right, we were off to see Dr. Reinders who has a spectacular garden which I'm guessing covered about 1 hectare.  He took us around, offering even more tomatoes, a variety of eggplant (including Cambodian and Assyrian, the latter being *very* bitter and tobacco-ey, by the way!), and other assorted veggies - oh, and he threw in a yard-long bean at the last minute.  Then you go to the reception desk in his surgery where the bounty is weighed (African Relish picked up the tab for this, of course).  I thought it was pretty cool - imagine going to the doctor and him "prescribing" a walk around his garden in the sunshine for a bit of vitamin D and maybe some cruciferous veggies for your iron deficiency!  That was probably the highlight of the day for us.

Then back to the kitchen at African Relish to figure out what to do with all our bounty of veggies.

Lunch done, we get a 1.5 hour break to refresh ourselves.  It was pretty hot.  So, we wandered down to the Lazy Lizard for a quick pick-me up, then back to Dennehof for a catnap and a dip in the pool.  

Times up, so back to African Relish we head - for dinner we'd make an Italian-style tomato sauce which we'd combine with grilled eggplant (aubergines to you) for a parmigiana-inspired dish, together with a butter nut and blue cheese risotto.  Dessert in the desert:  stewed plums with ice cream.

And finally, it's time for dinner with stewed plums for dessert - bon appetit!

Good deed done for the day, we pay a visit to the Fransie Pienaar Museum - probably one of the better local museums I've experienced.  Museums aren't normally my thing - usually within minutes my legs feel like lead, I start to feel light-headed and find it difficult to breathe (I experience a very similar condition in shopping malls).  In fact, we usually have a pact for our European road trips:  no churches or museums, but we made an exception in this case and I have to admit this one was not bad at all.  

The affable greeter at the Museum gave us a quick introduction to the place, then left us alone to discover the rest.  But he planted an idea in our heads:  he said the waterfall at Meiringspoort (see the great MountainPassesSouthAfrica website for photos of the pass and an overview as well as these TripAdvisor Reviews) was worth a visit.  Bingo!  The deal was sealed:  that's what we'd do in the afternoon.  But first, over to see Gay's Guernsey Dairy (see: TripAdvisor Reviews) to check out their cheeses (you can do a tasting at no charge - we bought a mozzarella and a parmesan-styled cheese).

The next morning we got up, had another delicious breakfast - it was busy, there was a large group of friendly Danish bikers of the motorcycle variety who had made this their first stop on a Cape Town to Durban trip (they'd ship their bikes back via container.  But within minutes we had our coffee and freshly-squeezed orange juice - and thereafter our "stack" and meringue omelette (delicious!).  

We had a good chat with Ria before leaving - guess what?  She suggested (in fact, strongly suggested) that for our next road trip we might like to check out Karoo Cuisine in Murraysburg - Ria said that after spending time with host Susanna and Chef Erika she always comes back inspired with new ideas.  Judging by the quality of the food that comes out of Ria's kitchen at Dennehof (they often also serve dinners, but sadly not while we were there...), that's definitely a vote of confidence.   hmm, that just may be a thought.... stay tuned!

But first we have to get home - so it's over the Swartberg Pass where the watermelon pink petals of the proteas are blooming as we approach the summit.  Incidentally, with little recent rain, the gravel road, which can be rough at times, was in very good condition.  Then it's over the Robinson Pass where we see a few more protea (though not nearly as many) and home via Hartenbos and Little Brak.  Figure 8 done and dusted!

If you're planning a visit to Prince Albert be sure to check out their website or download their free app for Android or iOS for what's to see and do.

What can I say, I love a good road trip.  So, fuelled by a mug of coffee, it was time to go - there's no time for breakfast, we'll get it along the way.  Maybe somewhere in Wilderness... maybe Tottie's Farm Kitchen in Rheenendal, who knows, just grab your sunglasses and let's go!

So, down the N2 we head.  Turns out Tottie's is only open noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays, so we decide to try Beejuice at the old train station stop in Wilderness (on the right-hand side of the N2 about 300-400 meters before you reach the main entry to Wilderness).  The food was very good - and the coffee was great.

Fed and coffee'd up, time to carry on down the N2.  Next stop Old Nick Village just past Plettenberg Bay for a look at the raw wood furniture, ceramics, soaps and textiles, with a few old bits of machinery thrown in, presumably to keep us guys amused.  Me, I cover the whole hectare (?) in about 5 minutes and then I'm happy to have a bench - you go do your soap snooping and your picture perusing, take as long as you like, I'll be happy to wait here....

Old Nick done and dusted, we head further up the road to the Crags, heading up Monkeyland Road to pop in at The Mohair Mill and associated little shops (and tiny nursery).  Then back we come, heading down to Keurboomstrand (with Enrico's at the very end) for a little beach walk on a blustery day.

Then back in the vehicle for the push home - turns out the N2 is being repaved for a good few kilometers somewhere between the Garden Route Mall and Pacaltsdorp.  We peel off, taking the Glentana exit, ever hopeful we'll see dolphins.  I saw several the other day at precisely high tide just before Hersham.  Today, though it was rather choppy was no different - another few dolphins just off Peinaarstrand.

Inspired, we after getting home we decide we should take a beach walk.  We wade through the maze of the meandering river heading to the mouth and out along the beach to the end of Southern Cross.

No dolphins, but a nice stroll along the deserted beach and back around The Island just in time to get the braai going for dinner.  Ahhhh.... all in all a pretty successful day! ​

Had a great group hike up to the intake for the old Willie Searle furrow on a hot day today.  Despite a bit of bushwacking, we were rewarded by spectacular scenery and a dip in the pools (especially the larger natural pool with the waterfall).  Unfortunately, the battery on my mobile phone ran out, so no photos after we reached the intake (the swimming came after that about 500 meters back on the way down).

Thanks to Jeremy for organizing - and of course, to farmer Candace de Jong for granting us access.

Our good friends at WESSA sent me the invitation to this tour earlier in the week.  It's since been published on the Mossel Bay Advertiser website (incidentally, the photo used in the article was taken at Southern Cross, showing "our" Cave Rock in the background - the guide is pointing towards The Island).  If you fancy a bit of a roadtrip and education all rolled into one, it might be worth doing.  Here are the details from the newspaper article:

Coastal geology tour












Enjoy a self-drive geological day trip from Mossel Bay to Hoekwil in the company of experts on 25 April.

GARDEN ROUTE NEWS - The Garden Route, apart from being beautiful, has a fascinating coastal geology and land-forming process that the untrained eye may not spot.
 
Join experts Paul Rixom, Peter Ginn and Colin Ralston on a self-drive geological day trip from Mossel Bay to Hoekwil on 25 April.
 
The evidence of the changing position of the South African coastline and the power of erosion over millions of years will be explained. Certain sediments were formed during the early break-up of Gondwana and the evolution of the first South African coastline. The development of the modern coastal dunes and their fossil predecessors will give a greater appreciation of the natural beauty of the area.
 
The palaeontological treasure of the area as well as mineral (gold and offshore gas) will be discussed. 
The entire drive is a wonderful illustration of a range of sedimentary and coastal erosion processes with some igneous granite intrusions adding spice to the mix.
 
The tour is well-organised with route directions giving the stops (Great Brak River, Herold's Bay, Victoria Bay etc.) where each small group (max 20 persons) will stop and perhaps walk a short distance. Bring refreshments, a picnic lunch and camping chairs.
 
The tour starts in Mossel Bay at 08:30 and ends in the afternoon at the viewpoint on the road up to Hoekwil. The tour is organised by Wessa Eden to raise funds for their Education Fund.
 
Booking is essential and cost per adult is R80 and donations are most welcome. 
[email protected] / 044 873 4203
 
'We bring you the latest Garden Route news'

08:00 (GMT+2), Sat, 11 April 2015

After the flooding in 2006, the famous Outeniqua Choo Tjoe which ran along the coast was halted - the tracks near Herold's Bay and Wilderness were badly damaged.  Unfortunately, despite many attempts to resurrect the line (or turn it into a cycleway), it still remains out of commission.

But....

If you're looking for the next best thing, there's the Diaz Express which launched this year (as an extension to the even smaller run the Outeniqua Power Van operator did between Hartenbos & Mossel Bay in 2013 and 2014).  Each Wednesday, assuming there are a minimum 21 passengers, it runs from Mossel Bay to Great Brak and return (after a stop at the Transkaroo restaurant).  Perfect for enjoying amazing view of the coastline!

Here's their schedule for February 2015:

Booking is absolutely essential for the Great Brak leg (otherwise it only runs between Mossel Bay and Hartenbos). 

For more information, check out their Facebook page or read this article in the Mossel Bay Advertiser.

We dropped by The Blue Shed Coffee Roastery on Bland Street in Mossey Bay earlier in the month, but I didn't get a chance to load the pics.  The coffee is pretty darn good - they have about half a dozen varieties - and price-wise, they are on par with what you'd pay at the Spar if you buy the beans or have them ground.  You can also grab a small bite to eat (quiches, pastries) if you're feeling peckish.

Not a bad thing to do after you've picked up your fresh fish at Viking Fisheries (one block further as you head towards The Point)

If you feel like a great craft beer experience, then head on over to Zucchini's at Timber Lake Farm Village. With 42 different craft beers from around the Cape - and a tasting menu - it's the best selection I know of in the region (dine-in only).   The little wine shop opposite also carries some local beer as well as locally-made Inverroche gin and a pot stilled brandy - well worth a trip to the distillery in Still Bay behind Olyven Houdt  Farm Restaurant/Cafe which is also great for lunch out that way...

We decided to take a trip up the coast to Keurboomstrand on the other side of Plettenberg Bay, dropping by a few of our favourite places along the way.

First stop was Timber Lake Farm Village (where we discovered the large craft beer menu at Zucchini's), then on to Tottie's Farm Kitchen in Rheenendal for a delicious lunch in their wonderful garden (definitely worth a  visit) as a bit of a side-trip on the way to Knysna.

First stop in Knysna was to see Cheryl who has her refinished furniture at Frame by Frame on Gordon Street now (she moved from her original location next to Firefly Eating House last year) and then a quick pop into the Knysna Art Gallery which is housed in the old Knysna gaol.  We picked up a couple of ceramic birds (2 for R100) and stuck them in an old bird cage we brought back from Jakarta a couple of few years ago.  Works pretty well, I think!

From there it was onward to the Leisure Isle Art Gallery (which is co-housed with Leisure Isle Antiques) there before carrying on our way.

On the N2 about 7-8 km's before Plett, there's a fantastic little place called, "The Heath", where you'll find a cozy cafe, and a really great bespoke wood furniture & design shop called ilovani (together with Amoeba Concepts), where you'll find all sorts of cool and original items.  Definitely worth a stop if you're into original, natural design.

Then it was past Plett to the Old Nick Village where we ordered a couple of good coffees from the friendly (American) barrista.  Had a bit of a wander around there looking in the shops before moving down the road to our destination:  Keurboomstrand.

We were last there several years ago, but after hearing good things about Ristorante Enrico (check out the reviews on TripAdvisor), we decided it was worth a visit - besides, we're always up for a road trip.

We had an antipasto platter and a couple of craft beers (can you sense a theme?), as we were saving ourselves for the big event later in the evening (the antipasto was good and the service very friendly, but I have to admit my bias: La Locanda in George is still my favourite!).  Meanwhile, there were a few dozen dolphins swimming by, putting on a real show - the viewing was great right from our table (sorry, no pics - not really worth the attempt with a mobile phone).  It's definitely worth a trip to Enrico's if you're into a bit of a drive.

The big event?  Dinner at Kilzer's Kitchen back in Knysna for their weekly "Cook & Look" which are held Wednesday evenings (see reviews on TripAdvisor).  It was fun and something a bit different.  They aren't licenced, so if you go, bring your own bottle - or bottles.  Here are a few photos:

Left the women to continue their browsing & buying at the Bliki Tin Shak and walked down the R102 to the Mooi Uitsig Kroeg & Kombuis for a beer (I figure it's about time after passing it on the bike numerous times).

The draft Carling Black Label brought back memories - it's an old school beer whose origins date back to the founding of Carling Breweries in Canada by London,Ontario farmer Thomas Carling in 1840, having since been bottled under license in the UK, the USA and of course, South Africa, where it's one of the country's best-selling beers.

The Mooi Uitsig serves food during the week and offers a popular Sunday lunch from 12:30 p.m.

New this season - charming little place for arts, crafts, used books, a bit of fashion, odds & ends, some pies, refreshments and garden ornaments - on the R102 near the Mooi Uitsig Kroeg & Kombuis (our next stop)